Christmas in Rome is steeped in cultural tradition and centers around family, friends, and most importantly, food. Feasting is the most important activity during the Italian holiday season. A huge Christmas tree and a full-scale Nativity creche with life-size figures of Mary, Joseph, the baby Jesus, and angels and shepherds give Saint Peter's Square a festive holiday spirit. Every year a Christmas crib is set up on the Spanish Steps the setting and costumes of which recall Trastevere and its inhabitants as it was represented by the Roman artist Bartolomeo Pinelli in the nineteenth century. Another nativity scene worth visiting is the one in the Franciscan basilica at the Ara Coeli next to the Campidoglio (city hall).

24 December: Christmas Eve Every Christmas Eve, the Pope gives Midnight Mass in St Peter's Square. The service takes place in the very heart of Roman Catholicism in what is arguably the world's most famous church. The Christmas Eve speech is broadcast to over 40 countries. Christmas Eve is usually celebrated with a big meal at home. There may be as many as 10 to 20 fish dishes prepared, but no meat. Traditionally, in Rome, a Capitone, or big female eel, roasted, baked, or fried, is brought to the table. Common are the Christmas sweets: panettone, torrone, and panforte are but a few. All sweets, as a rule, must contain nuts and almonds. In ancient Rome, honey was offered so that the New Year may be sweet. 

There are many other squares in Rome that will celebrate the holiday season from late November until early January.  Piazza Navona hosts a traditional Christmas market, complete with Santa Claus, nativity scenes and stalls selling Christmas goodies, mostly toys and sweets.  Piazza del Popolo hosts a yearly exhibition of over 200 nativity scenes featuring hand crafted cribs in traditional design. We have much to see as we visit this glorious city. 

Grab some holiday treats and settle in for some holiday scrapping, Italian Style!